WWD: Jil Sander RTW Spring 2012

Raf Simons started with a Sander standard, the white shirt, and worked the daylights out of it, often with tense sensuality delivered via contrasts of traditional shirting and sheer fabrics. These came in endless shirt and dress takes, referencing variously the austere uniform sector (his particular fascination, women who treat other women at resort spas) and, with one of his marriage dresses, the post-New Look Fifties. Otherwise, a large-scale pink paisley added spunk; gingham pants and knits, both in lean and thicker versions — the latter with riffs on Picasso ceramics sanctioned by the artist's family trust — sportif; and sleek cocktail dresses, an uberelegance that sadly, feels retro these days. Some of these got a pair of jeweled brooches at the waist, in front or back. For the full review and images: http://bit.ly/qVy0s8