Why J.W Anderson's Loewe Is So Fun (SS25 Menswear Review)

In today's video I am reviewing Jonathan Anderson's (J.W Anderson) Loewe Spring Summer 2025 (SS25) Menswear Runway Show / Collection. “I enjoyed this one because it was about doing precision. My own interpretation of precision.” A decade since his first collection for Loewe, Jonathan Anderson is still finding fresh lines of investigation to mine. Today’s show was set within a group display of works by creatives whose “singularity” he admires; these included a copy of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation just next to Easel by Carlo Scarpa (scarpa means shoe in Italian). Pre-show, bulky security guards loomed with entertaining absurdity of scale over the macro sculptures of Paul Thek’s Pied Piper series. There was a Peter Hujar photo of a stiletto scarpa that Anderson said was a starting point for this collection. And as well as one of Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s chairs, there was a surprisingly industrial looking coat rack in oak and iron around which was laid a feather boa; a Loewe team member adjusted it minutely according to instruction delivered by head-set just before the show began. All of this reflected the group show whose disparate exercises in minuteness and precision delivered a series of what Anderson described as “razor looks.” Slim silhouette, very French C-suite tailoring with almond-toe leather oxfords in black opened the show. Anderson said that Loewe had developed the fabric in woven silk mohair to have a purposefully spongey finish. With movement,