Wool Fabric 101: Supplies for Sewing

Let's talk about the varying types of wool you'll regularly find on the market today and what's appropriate for historical costuming! There's a lot of different textile options and it can quickly end up confusing, so I'm not only going to break down the definition of each, but we'll look at the textile close up, see how it handles, and even sometimes how it makes up into a finished garment! - Gauze Sheer, soft Space between threads wider to make fabric sheer - Challis Light weight, soft Unstructured and mostly opaque (depending on color) - Crepe Light weight, soft Bumpy texture and matte finish - Jersey Light weight, soft Knit with stretch that is generally opaque (depending on color and stretch amount) - Suitings Broad term for midweight wools that are opaque and trend hard over soft hand - Worsted Midweight, mid to hard hand Any suiting that uses worsted wool threads that will result in a smoother, glossier finish - Tropical Light weight, mid hand Specifically light weight suiting - Super Xs Midweight, mid hand Refers to number of threads packed in and quality of textile. Up to 200s - Flannel Midweight, mid hand Has been fulled to soften one or both sides - Gabardine Midweight (sometimes heavy), mid to hard hand Twill weave that trends towards stiffer depending on weight and thread count - Satin/Sateen Midweight, mid hand Uses satin weave to achieve a glossier side - Silk/Wool Can be many different weaves, but often is a satin weave that has a harder hand - Twe