Alexander McQueen SS14: Primitivism and Power

Sarah Burton sent out a visceral and potent collection for SS14. A chequerboard carpet made of sand in Mondrian-like blocks of reds, beige and and black made for an intriguing setting for the show. If it was meant to be an indicator of what was to come (Modernism? Stained glass?) it served only to throw everyone off the track because what followed was less a development of one or two reference points, and more a surpassing of a whole host of reference points. There were dresses that looked to be woven like Charles Rennie Mackintosh stained glass windows. Warrior woman harnesses and golden Greek god helmets. There were huge pleated check pattern skirts with Victorian bustles, and African hula skirts made of hairs that swished wildly as the models walked (imagine what they'd do on a dancer). Each look that came out was a fascination in itself, a beautiful curiosity that compelled you to learn about it, touch it, educate yourself about it - much like a visit to a museum. There aren't many designers who inspire academia and emotion in equal measure. But Sarah Burton - having given birth to twins just eight months ago - is in a league of her own.