Chloé SS14: Plissé please

The first look that Claire Waight-Keller sent down the catwalk looked like you might spot it on the Khao San road in Thailand, or in a beach bar in Goa. A loose and flowing handkerchief top with fisherman trousers and muted colours for the gap year traveller who has to use the local launderettes. But never judge a collection by its first look, because this gap year traveller got more and more sophisticated with each look that emerged. The accordion pleats were a highlight - adding shape to a pair of ankle tie khaki trousers, and adding bounce to a number of strappy summer dresses. Plissé is big news for next season and here, as always with Chloé, it was done with the lightest of touches. The free-flowing femininity the house is known for extended into billowing silk mousseline dresses, and spidery broderie anglaise dresses layered over spring's staple big pants. It being Chloé, the girl kept her cork wedge shoes on throughout. Just like any Parisienne, she may be sexy, but she must never look as if she tried too hard.