Emporio Armani - 2014 Fall/Winter Menswear Fashion Show

ILLUSION A glowing world; a lustre that stems from the very nature of the fabric and its transformations; a flash of fur that changes the perception of garments. A glamorous project by choice and intention, Emporio Armani focuses on mineral colours such as stone greys. These are splintered, crushed and pulverised rock tones that display a sophisticated iridescent effect, with blue that fades into darker shades of rhubarb — metropolitan hues that emphasise the link with the city. The new silhouette offers a sense of momentum. The slightly shorter jacket with three or four buttons has a small, high lapel, with slim trousers that end at the ankle. Knee-length coats accentuate an impression of lightness through their fine fabrics and careful construction; parkas render movements fluid. Fabric bombers affirm an ironic taste for modern classics, which is the collection's hallmark. New rules mark the choice of fabrics: small, faux weaves have disappeared, while fluid and unbelievably thin loom-worked jacquard takes over. Glencheck becomes dégradé and wool takes on a fur effect, like a subtle astrakhan or moiré. Even the shirts are made in jacquard, with a slight chiaroscuro effect as if on an icy surface. To give flexibility and comfort, the sleeves and backs of jackets, shirts and blouson jackets may be of soft jersey. A new generation of sweaters with faux fur inserts (as appliqué or replacing the entire front) become the antithesis of the classic pullover. A completely cl