Nan Kempner: The Saint Laurent Exception

Nan Kempner was one of the most fascinating women in American fashion history — a New York high society icon, an extraordinary collector of haute couture, and one of Yves Saint Laurent’s most devoted clients. Her wardrobe included nearly 600 Yves Saint Laurent creations, helping preserve important examples of his work that were missing from the designer’s own archives in Paris. But how did an American socialite become such an important figure in the history of French fashion? Her story includes one of fashion’s most memorable acts of rebellion. When the famous New York restaurant La Côte Basque refused to admit women wearing trousers, Nan Kempner simply removed hers and walked in wearing her long Yves Saint Laurent tunic. It was a small incident that revealed something essential about her personal style: elegance did not have to mean obedience. Born in San Francisco in 1930, Kempner discovered Christian Dior and postwar Paris haute couture before developing her remarkable relationship with Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. During the 1960s and 1970s, she became known for her YSL trouser suits, Le Smoking tuxedos, safari jackets, and spectacular evening gowns. Her wardrobe also included designs by Madame Grès, Valentino, Chanel, and Oscar de la Renta. Unlike many couture collectors, Nan did not simply preserve beautiful clothes. She wore them, mixed pieces from different seasons and designers, and created unexpected combinations that brought an unmistakably American sens