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Crafting a suit jacket collar
DescriptionMy linen suit jacket is approaching the home straight: the shoulder seams are sewn, the pads and lining are in. Next step is to construct and attach the collar, which allows not just for discussions and demonstrations of bias-cut fabrics' flexibility, but also a few technological near misses... The panels used to makeMore
My linen suit jacket is approaching the home straight: the shoulder seams are sewn, the pads and lining are in. Next step is to construct and attach the collar, which allows not just for discussions and demonstrations of bias-cut fabrics' flexibility, but also a few technological near misses...
The panels used to make the collar are cut from three fabrics in all: garment fabric for the top-collar, and then linen collar canvas and collar melton for the under-collar. The latter two are cut on the bias, which means at an angle to the straight and cross grains of the fabric. This allows them to be manipulated into a three-dimensional shape with the iron, resulting in a more natural fit around the neck and shoulders. What a hoot! Next stop, the sleeves...
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00:00 Intro
00:30 What is the bias?
01:30 What is it good for?
02:08 Shaping the under-collar
04:20 Attaching the under-collar
04:52 A new neckline
05:13 Preparing the top-collar
05:47 Attaching the top-collar
06:39 My favourite baste(s)?
08:35 Basting up the neck lining
09:07 Cross-stitching the collar-tips
09:48 Taking stock
Watch next:
https://youtu.be/_CbwVC6DjdY?si=DCtf01D1xQ2xerEr
https://youtu.be/PzUU_2NxkuQ?si=MHNhX5RHJQXl3wLj
Music, in order of appearance:
That Second Kiss / Nocturnal Spirits / courtesy of www.epidemicsoun
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