YOHJI YAMAMOTO A/W24-25

Friday, March 1st 2024 at 7pm (Paris time UTC+1) "There was no music to accompany the models as the Yohji Yamamoto show began. With only the sound of their feet gliding down the raised wooden runway and the camera shutters clicking, the dim hush allowed for reflection on how different the Yohji experience is from the rest of fashion - with no paid-to-be-there celebrities and no paparazzi throngs. Not that Yamamoto, who is now 80 and who has been putting on runway shows for over 40 years, was lacking for notable attendees. Diana Widmaier Picasso and Klaus Biesenbach sat in the front row, near the French artist Orlan, the musician Warren Ellis (who walked the designer’s men’s runway a month ago), and the milliner Stephen Jones. To start, the collection was all black. The details disappear against the background in these images, but there was nothing flat about Yamamoto’s designs. The coats, dresses, and suits were all embellished with collapsing squares of various kinds, like walking cubist sculptures. Widmaer Picasso’s grandfather, in his cubist period, depicted his subjects from many different perspectives, putting them in deeper, richer, and more complicated context. Yamamoto was up to something related here. Certainly, the woman who wears one of these pieces on the street will get a double-take (...)" By Nicole Phelps for Vogue Runway Staged by Yohji Yamamoto team Lighting by TAKAY Hair by Odile Gilbert Make-up by Stéphane Marais Music by Jiro Amimoto Footage filmed, pro