WWD: Haider Ackermann RTW Fall 2012

Ackermann's work is both cerebral and sexy. Abandoning last spring's more casual "rockabilly barons," for fall he telegraphed a message of power-chic fueled covertly by both dark and artful undercurrents. A lean, even severe silhouette dominated, sometimes cinched with a sharply geometric corset belt. Ackermann delivered the look while incorporating serious volume — short, thick jackets bunched in back over slim skirts, a silk blouse with a wool yoke and billowing sleeves, and an almost obsessive fascination with the lower torso. This resulted in meticulously tiered and sculpted peplums, buttress-like hip adornments and leathers that pushed out from the waist to be cut away into dramatic front tails, as if commissioned for the archetypal cinematic glamour villainess. Ackermann softened it up beautifully, with abundant hooded coats and some languid dresses, including several gathered in front for a capelet effect. And throughout, he worked his color magic, playing groups of rich oranges, reds, blues and purples against earthy neutrals. For the full review: http://bit.ly/wf2Slb