How to Reinforce and Shape the Pagoda Jacket Lapel Break Line – ISOT Lesson 24

This lesson shows how to reinforce and control the lapel break line on the Pagoda jacket using a bridle. Reza demonstrates how to apply a straight-grain strip of Silesia to the jacket break line to prevent it from stretching and distorting. The break line is often on the bias, which means it needs to be stabilised before the lapel is padded and shaped. In the Pagoda Model, this step is especially important because the forepart has more shape and requires more control than a simpler jacket front. In this lesson, you will see: • What a bridle is in tailoring • Why the lapel break line needs reinforcement • How bias grain can stretch and distort the jacket front • How to mark the break line on the fabric and canvas • How to trim back horsehair and domette on the break line • How to prepare the Silesia bridle • How to use the bridle to gather the Pagoda break line • How to assess the forepart after bridling This is ISOT Lesson 24 in Module 1 of the ISOT Online Coat Making Course. It is a practical Pagoda Model lesson showing how to reinforce and control the lapel break line before the lapels are padded and shaped. ➤ GET YOUR PURPLE BOX (TRADITIONAL & PAGODA BUNDLE): https://www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/category/purple-box-bundles ➤ ATLAS TAILOR'S THIMBLE: https://www.tailorsthimble.com ➤ ECLIPSE RULER SET: https://www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/product-page/eclipse-professional-tailoring-ruler-curve-set-in-black // CHAPTERS // 00:00 - Welcome to ISOT Le