How to Refine the Silhouette of a Bespoke Jacket | ISOT Bonus Lesson 34 – Pagoda

This part of ISOT Bonus Lesson 34 focuses on refining the silhouette of the advanced Pagoda Model after the main fitting corrections to the jacket have already been made. Reza shows how relatively small alterations to the side seams, underarm seams, front edge and back can significantly change the visual character of a bespoke jacket. Rather than simply making the jacket smaller or tighter, each alteration is used deliberately to strengthen the sculpted, hourglass silhouette of the Pagoda Model while maintaining balance, comfort and a clean drape. The lesson begins by aligning the waist suppression of the side and underarm seams so that they work together as one continuous shape. Reza then demonstrates how to take in the side seams on the double to create a cleaner and more sculpted side silhouette. The underarm seam is then displaced forward to further emphasise the hourglass shape, followed by an alteration to the front edge to improve the silhouette when the jacket is buttoned. The lesson also looks beyond waist suppression. Reza demonstrates how stretching the blade area can create additional room for the shoulder blade without simply letting the jacket out, and how a small asymmetrical alteration to the top of the back side seam can improve the roll and drape of the back. This is not simply a lesson about making a jacket more fitted. It is about understanding how the position and shape of individual seams influence the overall silhouette of a bespoke jacket. In thi