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Back Shoulder Fullness Myth in Tailoring – ISOT L27 P2 – Traditional

Aug 25, 2023 · 7.8K views

In this video

Format
Talk
Products & items
jacket
Materials & techniques
shoulder construction

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DescriptionThis lesson explains why Reza does not consider back shoulder fullness technically correct in tailored jacket construction. Reza takes a detailed look at the common method of gathering fullness into the back shoulder seam. Although this method is widely used in the industry, the purpose of this lesson is to examine whMore
This lesson explains why Reza does not consider back shoulder fullness technically correct in tailored jacket construction. Reza takes a detailed look at the common method of gathering fullness into the back shoulder seam. Although this method is widely used in the industry, the purpose of this lesson is to examine whether the reasons normally given for it are technically sound. This is the second part of the shoulder theory lesson. It focuses on the traditional explanation for back shoulder fullness, including the idea that it fits the trapezius muscle, allows forward arm movement, acts as dart displacement or creates forward shoulder construction. Reza evaluates each reason step by step and explains why he does not believe this method is appropriate from a technical level. In this lesson, you will see: • What back shoulder fullness means in tailoring • How the back shoulder is commonly gathered • Why the trapezius explanation is technically weak • Why forward arm movement does not justify back shoulder fullness • Why back shoulder fullness is not a proper dart displacement • Why this method does not truly create forward shoulder construction • Why workshop culture, authority and conformity can preserve weak techniques • How to think more critically about shoulder construction This is ISOT Lesson 27 Part 2 in Module 1 of the ISOT Online Coat Making Course. It is the Traditional Model version of the shoulder theory lesson and prepares students to understand shoulder cons

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