Demna's Gucci Debut Collection, Wisdom Kaye Exposes Miu Miu, Hedi Slimane Vs Celine + More

The waiting is over: Demna’s new Gucci is here. And true to his appetite for disruption, it arrived by surprise, dropped via a lookbook 36 hours ahead of the house’s scheduled film-format Milan presentation tomorrow evening. Entitled La Famiglia, the collection is our first primer into the new Demna-defined grammar of the house. Captured by the Los Angeles-based fine-art photographer Catherine Opie, it is a series of 37 portraits of characters who epitomise “the Gucciness of Gucci” as seen by its new artistic director. From Miss Aperitivo in her sequin minidress, to La VIC in her top-to-toe GG monogram, via the Narcisista whose shirt is unbuttoned almost to his GG buckle belt in a manner not unfamiliar to fans of the house during its Tom Ford era, this family album applies Demna’s sardonic gaze to the long-established codes of his historic new workplace. Opie’s very first image is captioned L’Archetipo, and shows a newly-constructed Gucci trunk. This was the product on which Gucci’s earliest success was based, when Guccio Gucci, fresh from working at The Savoy Hotel in London, returned home to Florence in 1921 to set up a luggage-maker dedicated to serving the rich and infamous of his time. In the next image Demna begins to write his chapter of the story Guccio started with a look entitled L’Incazzata, or ‘the furious one’. Yet its subject, modelled by Maria Carla Boscono, appears more elegant than enraged in a very 60’s scarlet mid-length coat, gloves, horsebit heels, and