Fashion’s State of Play: Women, Creativity and Commerce Clash In Paris | S/S 24 Round-Up

With more men in top positions than women, is the fashion industry going backwards? SHOWstudio's editor Hetty Mahlich sounds off on the defining theme of the season: the balance between creativity and commerce. Where some brands have proven to be experts at creating saleable collections without compromising their artistry, including Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and John Galliano at Maison Margiela, others are unabashedly veering into marketability. With a lack of women as creative directors, now is the time we should be shifting away from the male-driven fantasies that dominate fashion, but with fantasies that empower rather than minimise the wearer. Casablanca and Balenciaga were amongst the biggest offenders at Paris Fashion Week for prioritising capital in favour of innovation and imagination, the latter of which raised the issue of class cosplay in luxury fashion. Other shows Mahlich reflects on include Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons, Coperni, Louis Vuitton, Mugler, Nina Ricci, Peter Do, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, and Y/Project. Established in November 2000, SHOWstudio is an award-winning fashion website, founded and directed by Nick Knight, that has defined the manner in which fashion is presented via the Internet. A pioneer of fashion film and live fashion broadcasting, SHOWstudio is now recognised as the leading force behind these mediums, offering a unique platform to nurture and encourage fashion to engage with moving image in the digital age. In its docum