Jacket Collar Theory and Undercollar Drafting – ISOT Lesson 29

This lesson explains the theory behind tailored collars and how to draft a collar pattern for a bespoke jacket. Reza explains what a tailored collar is based on, why the collar pattern is shaped the way it is, and how construction affects the final collar. The purpose is to understand the relationship between the neck, shoulders, break line, button position, collar width and material shaping before drafting the pattern. This is not just a collar drafting demonstration. It explains the logic behind a one-piece collar, why the break line needs a curve, and how different factors change the collar pattern before the undercollar is cut and constructed. In this lesson, you will see: • How a tailored collar relates to the neck and shoulders • Why collar construction affects the collar pattern • The essentials of a one-piece collar • Why the curve of the break line matters • How shoulder angle affects the collar draft • How button position affects the collar draft • How material shaping and collar width affect the final collar • How to draft a collar pattern for a bespoke jacket This is ISOT Lesson 29 in Module 1 of the ISOT Online Coat Making Course. It explains the theory behind tailored collars before the practical undercollar construction lessons begin. ➤ GET YOUR PURPLE BOX (TRADITIONAL & PAGODA BUNDLE): https://www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/category/purple-box-bundles ➤ ATLAS TAILOR'S THIMBLE: https://www.tailorsthimble.com ➤ ECLIPSE RULER SET: https://www.inte