How to Baste Sleeves With Excess Fullness Into a Bespoke Jacket – ISOT Lesson 33 – Pagoda Model

This lesson shows how to baste tailored jacket sleeves into the Pagoda jacket. Reza demonstrates how to baste, press, correct, secure and evaluate the sleeves of the Pagoda Model. The purpose is to teach ease distribution, also known as distribution of fullness, so students can learn how to control extra sleeve fullness evenly around the armhole. This is not just a lesson on attaching sleeves. It explains how opposing curves, gathers and Shape by Angle affect the way a sleeve is set into a jacket. Shape by Angle is a term coined by Reza at the International School of Tailoring to explain one specific way of creating shape through opposing angles. In this lesson, the sleeve pattern is cut with more fullness than usual. This forces the student to practise distributing the sleeve fullness correctly instead of relying on an easy sleeve fit. The Pagoda Model also requires more control because the sleeve, shoulder and armhole shape are more advanced than in a simpler jacket. In this lesson, you will see: • How to baste tailored jacket sleeves into the Pagoda Model • How opposing curves, gathers and Shape by Angle affect sleeve setting • How to distribute sleeve fullness around the armhole • How to evaluate and correct the left sleeve • How to press a basted sleeve • How to secure the armhole after basting • How to evaluate sleeve position, pitch, front roll and fullness distribution • How to assess both sleeves on the body This is ISOT Lesson 33 in Module 1 of the ISOT Online